Over the years, I have met many people who dreaded nail enhancements or even gel polish because previous bad experiences had damaged their nails.
Does that mean nail enhancements themselves ruin or damage nails?
Of course not.
If the products used are of good quality and meet all legal standards, there is no risk of unpleasant surprises.
Of course, we may have allergies to certain gel or gel polish ingredients, but brands are increasingly careful and offer ranges without the main potentially allergenic ingredients.
Why, then, do so many people report bad experiences that left their nails damaged?
Possible causes of nail problems
Generally, what really causes nail problems is not the enhancement, gel or product itself, but the mechanical work done by the technician with a hand file or e-file.
The problem lies with an insufficiently qualified nail technician who uses tools incorrectly or does not have suitable equipment.
This can happen in a beauty salon as well as with someone working from home.
Here are the main ways nails are damaged:
- removing shine during preparation with a file or e-file bit that is too abrasive;
- using a suitable file or bit but applying excessive pressure or working on the nail for too long;
- removing gel or gel polish too quickly or aggressively. Removal requires an e-file bit suited to the material, and the last layer should be removed with a gentle hand file, such as 180 grit, rather than a carbide bit. Rushing also reduces precision and increases the risk of damage;
- incorrect preparation, leading to extensive lifting that must be removed at each infill, repeatedly stressing and thinning the nail plate;
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- overly harsh solvents, or solvents left on too long, can weaken nails—for example, gel polish removers;
- biting, chewing or pulling off enhancements using unsuitable or unprofessional methods can severely damage and weaken nails;
- handling harsh cleaning products or chemicals without gloves can spoil the enhancement and damage the natural nail underneath.
Important: no nail service should be painful or traumatic.
Even the best technician can occasionally slip with scissors and cause a small cut, or scratch the cuticle area with a file. What matters is that the service should not be consistently painful.
A damaged nail plate takes time to recover. Apart from people whose nails are naturally fragile for genetic reasons, nails can gradually return to normal.
A damaged nail plate may be thin, red and prone to breaking or bending. It may peel at the free edge or across the surface, making even a small amount of natural free-edge growth impossible.
The nail may also hurt. In that case, it should not be subjected to further treatments.
Possible solutions for damaged nails
I am not a doctor, and any nail abnormality should always be assessed by a dermatologist. With that in mind, here are some common-sense measures that may help damaged nails:
- consider over-the-counter supplements for strengthening hair and nails, asking a pharmacist for advice;
- the nail plate itself cannot absorb nutrients, so vitamins and other nutrients must be taken orally. However, natural oils can help keep nails and skin moisturised, flexible and soft;
- always wear protective gloves when using chemicals such as household cleaners.
Prevention is certainly better than cure.
How can we put this into practice?
As clients, we should choose our nail technician carefully, looking at her work, checking her qualifications and reading other clients’ reviews. If our nails are still repeatedly damaged, we should change nail technician!
As aspiring nail technicians, we need consistent, passionate and committed training to gain the knowledge needed to become true professionals.
Gel enhancements and gel polish should not only look beautiful: above all, they must preserve the health of natural nails.
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